As our journey reached mid to late May, exhaustion was definitely setting in. The pace of this ARC Rally had been intense—constant movement from one destination to the next, with little downtime in between. So having Marc's kids onboard brought a welcome boost of young energy, just what we needed to keep spirits high. Marc’s friend Boris also joined us, which turned out to be a wise decision, especially for this challenging 10-day sail with unpredictable weather.
We made the tough choice to skip Nuie, a stop many fellow sailors raved about for its unique landscapes, but for us, the additional paperwork and the short time on land just didn’t feel worth it. With each passage pushing us forward, the rally sometimes felt like a race rather than an exploration. But with a vibrant crew onboard, we were ready for whatever came next.
The highlight of this trip was celebrating my birthday at sea, all while gearing up for a big joint birthday party in Tonga with five other Geminis from the World ARC Rally.
Turning 48 in the middle of the Pacific Ocean on Saturday, May 25th, was a birthday like no other, all thanks to Marc and his two kids, Emma (23) and Daniel (19). I'm not known for waking up early, but that morning, I knew something special was in the works. I opened my eyes to a sea of balloons and streamers—Marc and the kids had transformed our boat into a floating celebration. I couldn’t have imagined a better gift than being surrounded by my favourite people on this trip of a lifetime. The day was filled with laughter, music, and dancing on deck, as we practiced to “Unforgettable” by French Montana—a song Emma and Daniel had chosen especially for me. With the fitting lyrics, “You are unforgettable,” I felt truly appreciated and loved. It was a moment of gratitude and warmth that I wanted to carry with me. Emma and Daniel would be staying with us for the next three months, so I hoped this trip would help us all create beautiful memories together. After a few challenging years adjusting to life with Daniel in Lisbon, I was eager for this adventure to bring us closer than ever.
Crossing the dateline just a day before reaching Tonga threw me to say the least - it took me a few days to wrap my head around the time shift! Arriving in Vava’u, Tonga, the landscape immediately struck me as distinctly Asian in feel, with lush green pinnacles rising from rock formations that had eroded at the base where they met the sea. The greenery here was dense and vibrant, a much deeper shade than we’d seen on our journey so far.
While Vava’u itself offered this dramatic natural beauty, the town felt noticeably different from our previous stops. It was less polished, with a raw, rugged character that spoke of a lower standard of living compared to the other places we had visited. Despite the contrast, Vava’u added a unique and thought-provoking layer to our travels in the Pacific.
My birthday week in Tonga was a whirlwind of celebrations, filled with exciting events every night. It kicked off with an impromptu pizza and wine party on my arrival night, followed by a prize-giving ceremony at Café Mango. I also enjoyed a visit to the Botanical Gardens, participated in a traditional kava root ceremony, and wrapped things up with a big Gemini birthday bash at the Kraken. There was never a dull moment, and I certainly didn’t have a chance to sober up!
Our trip to the Ene’Io Botanical Gardens was undoubtedly one of the most memorable days we spent on land during the rally. To be honest, it might have been the only outing we enjoyed with the group, as the rest of our plans never seemed to align. The drive through Tonga on the old bus was already a lot of fun, but the warm welcome we received from Haniteli and his wife, Lucy, the owners of the gardens, made it extra special.
Their hospitality truly stood out; they greeted us with genuine warmth that seemed to reflect the spirit of the Tongan people. Lucy shared her extensive knowledge of the endemic species in the garden, while Haniteli explained the various products made from the trees and plants we were surrounded by. After the tour, we enjoyed a delicious traditional lunch accompanied by a performance from the local dance school. The experience left us all deeply touched, and I found myself quite emotional. As a token of appreciation for their unforgettable hospitality, I decided to create a pen-and-ink painting capturing the moment, expressing my gratitude for the wonderful day. Definitely something they had not experienced before which was well received as you can see in this photo. 
ARC Prize giving night when I was awarded the prize of "Tour de Force - the lady on the rally one just can't say no to :)))))" I guess one of the reasons the organisers gave us this prize apart from the fact that we didn't win anything so far, as we actually never started with the group, was that the Gemini birthday on Wednesday 5th ended up being a Cracking party at the Kraken Vava'U Tonga!!
Antonio my friend from Canarias on SY Bluemoona, Dugald from SY Fatjax, John & Mary from SY Crazy Horse and 60th birthday of Lane from SY Corsair decided the Captain Briefing was the best moment to host a get together where everyone would need to dress up polynesian style. Drinks offered by the Geminis on arrival, an organised buffet BBQ and a beautiful blue 60th birthday cake for Lane, followed by dancing to our resident ARC DJ JOJO were some of the nights' activities. See post.
The following day was quite challenging as we set out to provision for our sail to Fiji. Not only were we all nursing hangovers, but the quality of food available was disappointing. To make matters worse, my friend Patricia was arriving soon to join us at our next port in Fiji. As always, I did my best to gather what I could, including plenty of frozen vegetables, but I had hoped for a better selection.
I expected that being in the Pacific—with its lush landscapes and rich waters—would mean an abundance of fresh fruits, vegetables, and seafood. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case. We just had to make do with what we could find, hoping our next stop would offer a wider variety. Arriving to the Lau Group Fiji Islands
Sailing from Port Maurelle to the Lau Group—the most remote island chain in Fiji—took us just two days. We departed on Sunday, June 9th, and arrived in Loma Loma by midday on Tuesday. In contrast, my friend Patricia took over three days to reach us. She had to fly to Nadi, the main island airport, and wait to catch a flight with customs officials, as there was no direct route to Loma Loma.
Seeing Patricia felt like Christmas! It had been so long since I’d had a heart-to-heart conversation. We spent hours exploring the land, and I couldn’t stop chatting. Talking with her truly helped me reflect on where I was in life. Patricia had flown all this way to see me, making it clear that this trip would be incredibly special for both of us!
Despite issues with not being able to use the windlass, which is the motor that hauls up the anchor and us having to create a contraption we decided we must head off as soon as possible for "The Bay of Islands" which was only half a day away. The photos I took don’t do this place justice, but I can confidently say it’s one of the most breathtaking locations I’ve ever visited. As we entered, I was spellbound by the lush greenery and the stunning light turquoise sea. I felt so small in this vast expanse, with nothing but the gentle sound of our boat gliding through the water and the occasional shout of excitement echoing our joy at finally being here after such a long wait!
I was filled with excitement as I set off alone the next morning on our SUP (Stand Up Paddleboard), weaving in and out of the bays and exploring the vast expanse of the area. I lost track of time as I crossed the bay to visit my friends on Sailing Yacht Fatjax, when suddenly I heard Marc calling on the VHF radio, asking if anyone had seen me. It must have been getting close to lunchtime, or he wouldn’t have been too worried!
The three days we spent with all the rally participants in the Bay of Islands were filled with great fun and camaraderie. We kicked things off with a tender party on our arrival evening, followed by a beach BBQ where everyone brought their own goodies. Emma and Dan hosted one of the most epic parties of the rally, and by then, the kids had really bonded and were in full swing, having an even better time than we had anticipated. It became clear that joining the rally was the right decision, as the kids were truly having the time of their lives.
The next island we sailed to overnight was Taveuni, famously known as the "Garden Island," with its lush greenery and some of the most beautiful flowers I've ever seen. These past few weeks had been more about having fun and gathering inspiration than focusing on painting. With a friend onboard, we wanted some time for ourselves, so we spent a couple of nights at the Paradise Resort Taveuni.
Our days were filled with morning yoga and excursions to waterfalls, local churches, and towns around the island, giving Marc and the kids the chance to bond. The younger ones were able to work on their PADI Advanced certification at the renowned dive site, "The Rainbow Reef."
After three days in Taveuni, it was time to sail to Nawi Island in Savu Savu, arriving early afternoon on Thursday, June 20th. I was impressed by the new marina facilities and the vibrant life bustling just across from Nawi Island Marina. This area was definitely a hub of activity, offering plenty of options for shopping. We found a variety of provisions at the supermarkets and the local market, which was a refreshing change after what felt like a long time without good options. It finally felt like we were reaching a destination we had been searching for months. I was so glad Patricia joined us now instead of earlier, when there had been so little to do and buy!
The highlight of this area was finding the Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort (Jacques Cousteau's son) and particularly Fiji's best fashion designer and now my lovely Fiji friend Tracey Ann Farrington. I first learnt about Tracey Ann's Resort Wear from the boutique in this resort. Her vibrant choice of colour of her kaftan's really inspired me! Designs that echoed the ocean or tropical flowers were my favourite as opposed to the tribal ones. Price value was definitely something that struck me as the materials used and sewing appeared very well done. Her work got me thinking as to why I too could not go into using my designs. I met Tracey Ann and discussed this with her in person but soon realised getting my work printed on garments would be a great expense and more of a risk than needed since I do not have experience in this field.
this experience has inspired a new project I'm currently pursuing: action painting on kimonos. I see the kimono as my canvas and am learning the intricacies of painting on textiles. Different fabrics react differently, so I have a lot to learn about which paints work best on each material to achieve the desired effect. I’m also considering how these pieces will hold up to washing and wearing over time. Treating my work as wearable art opens up an exciting new avenue that I can’t wait to dive into!
On our last day in the region, Patricia and I spent a delightful day at the cascades near Nawi Marina, chatting, relaxing, and capturing photos of the vibrant flowers and lush greenery around us. We knew this would be our last opportunity to spend time alone together before heading to the island of Yadua the following morning.
The next couple of days were filled with snorkeling off the island's reefs before we sailed south to Voli Voli, located in the northernmost part of Fiji's largest island, Viti Levu (10,000 sq. km). There, we would drop Patricia off so she could drive southwest to Nadi International Airport for her flight back to Europe.
It took us two half days to sail to Vuda Marina in Nadi, stopping overnight halfway, and we arrived at the marina in good time. Vuda Marina immediately felt like a home away from home; it wasn’t too large and had a welcoming atmosphere. The layout, featuring a mix of sea and land berths (known as cyclone pits), was nicely organised. There was also a well-priced restaurant called "The Boat Shed," a café, a store, a chandlery, and five cottages available for guests.
What stood out the most about the marina was its friendly staff, who greeted us with constant smiles and cheerful “Bula Bula!” (hello in Fijian) everywhere we went.
Although the marina was a little out of the way and we did need a car. It was much more our style than the concrete jungle of Port Denarau; full of people, shopping centres & fancy hotels. On one of my morning walks around the marina I bumped into what I thought was a bikini photo shoot. A few days later on my next walk in the other direction towards Nadi, I came across some guards and soon found out I had come across the location of "Love Island" a British Reality Show. If only the boys had been with me ;)
That weekend at the marina was good fun stocking up on provisions at the Lautoka market, finding Tracey Ann Farrington's Boutique and Sunday afternoon was spent painting my rally mates Sian and Susan. As soon as the following Wednesday 5th July we had to be off to the island of Malolo Lailai, only half a day away, for our final ARC Rally gathering at Musket Cove Resort. By this time we decided to quit the rally and go at our own pace. A pace that felt comfortable to us and particularly since we wanted more time to explore the Fijians Islands of the Yasawa's and the Mamanuca's.
Douglas one of Daniel's friends from Lisbon joined us Friday 5th July for the next 6 weeks exploring the YASAWA Islands is when our trip got real fun. The kids still so helpful and just very humorous at all times. This now felt like the perfect time for a good last blast of the Pacific, with time to explore freely thanks to Emma's good planning. Beginning with a very jolly karaoke evening at the Nanuya Resort. The following night, we enjoyed a traditional Fijian dinner cooked in the ground, known as "Lovo," prepared by the local chef, Sammy. During our conversation, Sammy asked if I would paint a portrait of his son, Levi. Knowing I would be donating the painting, I requested to have his wife, Kiri, as my model instead, as I aimed to build my portfolio for my upcoming Pacific exhibition.
Next day heading up north to the caves in Sawa-i-Lau Island we were treated by some of the most beautiful sunsets we had seen for a while. The caves were good fun but nothing exceptional. I believe the beauty of this part of Fiji was that it felt raw and untouched, people coming up to our boat with little local crayfish just topped it all.
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After a brief overnight visit to Somosomo Dollar Bay on Naviti Island, we set off for Paradise Cove to snorkel the nearby reef and search for manta rays in the pass. The next morning, we woke up early for another snorkeling session in the pass, and we were thrilled to spot a massive manta ray gliding just meters away from us with its mouth wide open. It was a bit overwhelming at first, but as I followed it through the pass, I began to truly appreciate the beauty of this magnificent creature I was witnessing for the very first time. Paradise Resort was a real treat, featuring a stunning pool and two excellent restaurants. It was a great choice for yachties, especially since not all resorts in the area are welcoming to us.
The next ten days in the Mamanuca Islands were beautifully planned by Emma. Since these were our final days exploring the Fijian islands, we aimed to have as much fun as possible, allowing everyone on board to share their preferences for activities. The two boys expressed interest in a 24-hour survival challenge on Cast Away Island, while Emma, Marc, and I were eager to visit one of Fiji's luxurious resorts. We kicked off our adventure at Mana Island, where the anchorage was incredibly calm and the waters were among the clearest blue I have ever seen, dotted with vibrant reefs.
I often find joy in painting my surroundings, but this time I decided it was finally time for a self-portrait after so many years! I truly enjoyed creating this piece, especially as I added sparkles, an odd earring, a light sequinned necklace, and some Hibiscus flowers that I chose to incorporate for an extra touch. It was a true reflection of how I felt that day!
After a couple of days, we decided to explore the area, and one memorable experience was our time at the sandbar. We had the place all to ourselves for a lovely lunch that we had prepared and packed. However, our peaceful moment was interrupted when a group of Asian travellers arrived, disembarking from a small speedboat, all dressed in full-length black suits that made them look almost like aliens from outer space. It was definitely time to move on to our next venue!
That same evening we tried to anchor at Yanuya Island on the west side closest the village but it was a rather tricky one so we decided best to sail to the opposite side next to the extraordinary super yacht "Artefact". The 80-metre yacht is owned by Canadian tech entrepreneur Mike Lazaridis, best known for creating the BlackBerry mobile device. Built in Germany in 2020 at an estimated cost of $240 million and named Motor Yacht of the Year in 2021, Artefact is one of the world's biggest super yachts by volume.
The following day was action-packed, starting with a visit to the local village to see the children at school. We were definitely a highlight of their day! Arriving into the town Emma, Daniel, Douglas and myself had to immediately give an offering of kava root to one man who came to meet us as we tied our tender up. He suggested we check out the local school, and now we understand why— we were welcomed in a way we had never experienced before. If only we could bottle up all their excitement to see us; it would surely brighten an entire nation!
That afternoon Daniel and Douglas left for their 24 hour Survival on CastAway Island while Emma, Marc and I went for a very lavish lunch at Tokoriki Resort, the most highly rated adults only boutique luxury island resort in Fiji. This was only made possible through my connection with Tracey Ann Farrington as so has her garments in the boutique there and knows the owner and his assistant well from Australia. We were picked up and dropped off by resort boat and looked after extremely well; invited to the owners home as part of the property for sundowners. As an act of kindness I left a painting for him which I made on site. What a treat this day had been for us!!
The next day we woke up thinking about the boys and what a rough time they must have had on island, especially when we realised they had not actually taken any water with them. Arriving to Castaway was just so funny as we could see 2 little heads popping out waving frantically at us. The boys were so excited to see us and when Emma got on the VHF to let them know we would be over to pick them up in 20 mins they said they wanted to come aboard as soon as possible. So much for our castaway survivors hahaha but good on them for giving it a go. Hearing the story of them harpooning a fish for dinner, sleeping next to a fire and drinking enough coconut juice till they were sick seemed all good fun but glad we had had our day at Tokoriki resort.
Emma and I went for a hike up the very top of this island to give us a good idea of the rest of the area and we were enthralled by the beauty of the region!!
The next day we made a last stop at Mana Island to witness some of the best blue water we had ever seen before heading back to Musket Cove to drop Emma off to catch her ferry back to the mainland Saturday 3rd August. So as she could get on her way to join the ARC youngsters on their road trip leaving Brisbane for Sydney the following week.
Once Emma had gone the good times were over as she it was time to haed back to Vuda Marina and have Axonite rest in a cyclone pit after such a fabulous trip. The plan was we would be back in 6 weeks to sail her to New Zealand as part of the Island Pacific Rally to New Zealand. It was now time after more than 8 months to head home to Europe and grab the last of summer :))
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